All surfers love a good line-up. It’s that overview of the surf break as you turn up at the beach, which can fill you full of excitement and promise of a great session to come.
In winter, when the surf is big and serious, you study the line-up for some time to get a read on how big the sets are, and where the safest place to paddle out and sit so as not to get steam-rollered by a thunderous set.
Conversely, in summer, when the waves are smaller and more perfect, you spend just a moment to admire the beauty of the ocean and then dive straight in.
